Looking for a way to build your own DIY wood counter? Learn how to make a thick, modern countertop from plywood in this step-by-step tutorial.
When I decided I wanted to use a wood countertop on my new kitchen island, I really wanted oak to go with my cabinets that I had refaced with veneer and built new doors for last year.
But when I started looking at the price of the oak butcher block countertop that I wanted, it was more than my budget allowed.
So, I decided to try to build a custom oak countertop for my new kitchen island from oak plywood!
DIY Wood Counter – Video
Want to watch how I built a oak countertop from plywood? Check out this DIY wood countertop video!
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How to make a countertop from plywood
Tools and Materials
Tools
- Cordless drill
- Drill bits
- Circular saw
- Kreg Rip Cut saw guide
- Kreg Accu Cut saw guide
- Sander
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
Materials
Step 1: Glue two pieces of plywood together
I wanted my countertop to be thicker than the standard 1/2-3/4 inch plywood. So first I laminated or glued two sheets of plywood together to make a 1 1/2 inch thick piece of plywood.
If you don’t mind a thinner countertop then you can skip this step and just use a 3/4 inch thick piece of plywood.
I used screws as “clamps” to hold the two pieces of plywood together while the glue dried.
So, first I marked where I wanted to use the screws on what will end up being the underside of the counter.
I basically started about 2 inches from the edges of the plywood and drew lines every 8 inches horizontally and vertically and used where the lines intersected as my mark.
You’ll notice that I have green tape on one side of the plywood. I put that there to remind myself NOT to use screws in that section. The green tape side will be overhanging the cabinets to make a bar area for seating in the final kitchen island and I don’t want screw holes showing.
In the area of the plywood/countertop where I didn’t want screws showing from the bottom, I used clamps to hold the plywood while the glue dried.
Next, I applied Titebond 2 wood glue to the two sides of plywood that I was gluing together. Sheets of hardwood plywood have a “good side” (pretty) and a “bad side” (not as pretty). I glued the bad sides together.
I put a large amount of glue on the wood and smoothed it out with a drywall scrapper.
Make sure you put a good bit of glue on. When I first started, I didn’t put enough glue on and when I spread it onto the plywood the glue layer was too thin and started drying.
I would also recommend putting plastic down anywhere you think glue could potentially drip. Once I started spreading the glue it started dripping off the edges of the plywood and my husband was running around behind me cleaning it all up.
Which brings me to my last tip: make sure you have someone who can help you for a half hour or so. You’ll need someone to help you lift one piece of glued plywood and place it on top of the other piece of glued plywood.
After I got all the glue applied to both sheets of plywood, my husband helped me carry one piece over to the other piece and gently place the glued sides together.
I used clamps to hold together the edge that I wasn’t putting screws in.
Then I started screwing the plywood together. I worked from the middle outward and I first drilled pilot holes through the first piece of plywood, with a 1/8 inch drill bit, where I had marked for the screws earlier. Then I used 1 1/4 inch #8 screws to join the two pieces of plywood together, being careful NOT to screw through the second piece of plywood (top of the countertop).
I let the glue dry for several days until I had time to take it outside to cut.
Step 2: Cut plywood for counter
Once I made my thick plywood for my countertop by gluing two pieces together, it was time to start cutting it to size.
First, I removed any screws that might be in the way of the blade when cutting.
Then, I used my Kreg rip cut tool and my circular saw to cut the plywood to the width that I wanted my counter. I cut mine to 37 inches.
Next, I used my Kreg accu cut and circular saw to cut the countertop to the lengths that I needed.
I wrapped my countertop down the sides of the kitchen island cabinets for the waterfall countertop look.
I really wanted to cut the corners of the top and side counter at 45 degree angles to make a mitered edge for my waterfall look counter.
I spent a good part of an afternoon trying to cut 45 degree angles in my plywood with my circular saw. But I couldn’t get the 45 degree angles to meet perfectly at the corners of my countertop. So I had to move onto my second option.
I ended up cutting the two side pieces of my waterfall counter to the height of the cabinets and the top counter large enough so that it would extend over the two side countertop pieces and cover them. It wasn’t my first choice, but it looks nice and I am happy with it.
Step 3: Apply edge banding and sand
After I had all my countertop pieces cut I did a trial fitting around the kitchen island cabinets to make sure everything was fitting right.
Next, I applied 1.5 inch oak edge banding to all of the edges of the counter that will be visible once it’s all put together.
And once all of the edge band was applied, I carefully sanded each countertop piece with 150 grit sandpaper. Paying close attention to remove the edge band overhang and sand it flush with the plywood.
Step 4: Assemble plywood waterfall countertop
Once I had my countertop pieces ready it was time to assemble them to make the waterfall counter.
First, I drilled holes in the ends of the side pieces that will be connecting with the top, with my Kreg pocket hole jig. I made sure to drill them on the inside of the counter where they will be hidden. And I didn’t drill any on the section of the counter where it will hang open over the cabinets.
Then, I used Kreg 90 degree clamps to hold the sides to the top and attached it with wood glue and Kreg screws.
Step 5: Install waterfall countertop
Once I had my waterfall counter assembled it was time to install it over my kitchen island cabinets.
My husband and I carefully lifted the countertop into place over my kitchen island cabinets.
Then I secured it to the cabinets with 2 inch screws, from the inside of the cabinets, on the top and sides.
Step 6: Seal plywood countertop
I finished my plywood countertop by sealing it to protect it.
I used Minwax Polycrylic to seal my plywood counter. I like it because it is water based (not smelly and cleans up easily with soap and water). Alternately, you could use an oil based polyurethane.
DIY Plywood Counter – Reveal
I’m really happy with how my DIY wood countertop came out. I’m curious to see how it holds up to daily kitchen wear and tear. I definitely won’t be cutting directly on it because it is not a butcher block and is not intended to be. I have a feeling it will be just fine. I’ll let you know in a few months!
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